Make no mistake: Pasadena is decidedly uncool. Instead, the L.A. suburb trades in a certain well-mannered unpretentiousness, despite its picturesque lantern-lit streets filled with National Register homes and listed architecture that you might also recognize from all-American movies such as Father of the Bride, The Parent Trap, and Back To The Future. These days, it stands in stark contrast to the grim and glam of greater Los Angeles. Indeed, this tony eastern enclave could be considered the city’s proper, well-traveled, and bookish big sister who married into Old Money.

She’s Classy Not Flashy—which also happens to be the name of her filly, who gallops away at the storied Santa Anita horse race track (more on that below), with the San Gabriel mountains as a backdrop. She’ll splash out at the farmer’s market (where local Phoebe Bridgers performed as a teenager) on persimmons and delicata squash. She prefers high tea at The Huntington (where Ralph Lauren and Rodarte have held shows) or boba at OinkMoo in the Burlington Arcade (Pasadena has one of the most dynamic Asian food scenes in the country) versus the influencer-in-Alo-ridden cafe hotspots of West Hollywood, of which she is blissfully unaware.

She is pleased, however, that Erewhon recently opened its biggest and bougiest new grocery store in the former I. Magnin department store space. After all, CEO Anthony Antoci grew up in the San Marino neighborhood in the ’70s and remembers it fondly. “There are so many cool older buildings they’ve been able to maintain in the area. It’s becoming more of an epicenter and we felt there was nothing like us here,” he says, noting that it’s currently their busiest location. “There are a lot of foodies in Pasadena. We’ve been welcomed by the community with open arms.” The new location features Portuguese tilework custom-glazed a dark red, a nod to the logo of the nearby Rose Bowl Stadium—the iconic sports stadium, flea market, and concert venue, which now has a signature Erewhon rosewater smoothie named in its honor. But Antoci is not the only one drawn to the idea of a homecoming. Lately, a new crop of creatives has been wooed by Pasadena’s under-the-radar attitude.

Julia Child hails from here, and coincidentally Meryl Streep (who played her in Julie & Julia) now calls it home. As do Mandy Moore, Kristen Wiig, and Mia Goth. Rodarte designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy have been based here since childhood. Meanwhile, Adele recently revealed that the first thing she did during a break from her Las Vegas residency was hightail to Pasadena for dim sum. Sleuths say it was Mama Lu’s or Chef Tony’s, many assume it’s local institution Lunasia, while some claim it’s Colette, but in typical low-key fashion, no one put her on blast.

“There’s something so nice, nostalgic, and California suburban about it here,” says designer and entrepreneur Humberto Leon. When he’s not touring as the creative director of K-pop-adjacent girl group academy Dream Factory, the multi-hyphenate returns here, to his childhood stomping grounds. Together with his family, he runs the Asian fusion restaurant Chifa in Pasadena-adjacent Eagle Rock, which captures all the eccentricity of his previous life as the co-founder of Opening Ceremony and co-creative director of Kenzo into a delightful fusion of Cantonese and Peruvian home cooking. “There’s amazing Asian food in the area, but we’ve never found anything that had cocktails and an environment where you could celebrate something. Or just come and have a fun meal.” His other preferred picks? Little Flower for breakfast bowls and Stony Point, a moody piano bar and Italian grill.

As of late, the Los Angeles real estate market has taken notice of the region as well. “It’s drastically changing,” says Leon, who lives on the edge of Pasadena near Eagle Rock. “I hear about so many people who are trying to buy a house around here,” he says, where previously they would bemoan how far away it was, despite being just 20 minutes from downtown L.A. “I think it’s the best-kept secret, to be quite honest.”

Acclaimed Canadian actor Steven Ogg sought a Pasadena refuge during the pandemic, craving a tranquil neighborhood with easy access to nature. “Wellness for me is the outdoors, including a natural cold plunge in local streams,” he says. Of a morning, Ogg can be found hiking Eaton Canyon and taking a freshwater dip with his dog Saatva. “I fell in love with its energy, quiet, space, and location to so many things I enjoy. The peaceful neighborhood allows me the quiet I need to create.”

“Pasadena is chock full of beautiful hikes, lovely libraries, and the immense sense of community,” says Nikki High, the owner of Octavia’s Bookshelf, a bookstore named after famed Pasadenian science fiction writer Octavia Butler. “I am located a few blocks away from her former schools, home, and favorite libraries. I’m not just influenced, but wildly obsessed.” Her favorite regional holiday traditions involve “waiting for the Rose Parade and all its excitement, the out-of-towners who flock to the area, and the lighting of Christmas Tree Lane, just to name a few.”

Pia and Davide Baroncini have built a life here that seems stolen from a Nancy Meyers rom-com: American fashion girl meets Italian fashion guy. They fall in love, move into her childhood home, have a baby, and also birth Baroncini Import & Co, their own olive oil imprint, sold at Erewhon and stalwart sandwicherie Roma Market. This month, their second child is due: a boutique for Ghiaia Cashmere, Davide’s brand of knit and sportswear informed by his time at Brunello Cucinelli. “Pasadena is beautiful. It’s slow. It’s classic. It’s oddly very similar to Sicily,” he says.

“People always think it’s so far away, and listen, it’s far,” Pia adds. “But West Hollywood to the west side takes just as much time. The houses and neighborhoods are magnificent. It really feels like you’re on a little vacation. We love it here and we want you to love it here.”

And then there’s my own story. You could consider this guide a personal love letter to Pasadena after a shaky start. You see, I ended up here by fate. My husband’s high-stakes work in horseracing and the pandemic shift necessitated a longer-than-expected sojourn. At first, I was less than thrilled to be holed up in this sleepy neighborhood. But soon, I began to see what Pasadena lacks (nightlife, trendy restaurants, big-name luxury brands, flashy cars, and the corresponding paparazzi and petty crime of, say, Beverly Hills) is actually what makes it so darn lovely and livable. My partner had his hands full overhauling the historical Santa Anita racetrack, so I’ve used it as an excuse to collect statement hats and host artists I admire on race day—from Lana del Rey to Kathy Griffin, Amanda Kloots, and Kaleo frontman JJ Julius Son.

Curious about the area’s many innate charms? Seeking an escape from the vain gloriousness of the City of Los Angeles? Well, look no further. Pasadena is especially sprinkled with retro magic during the holidays. Here’s what I consider most beguiling, with pro tips from those who know best.

Where to Shop

Book an appointment at Clothes Heaven, which for forty years has been a designer resale treasure chest bursting with archival finds from the likes of Chanel, Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier, Hermes, Pucci, and Manolo Blahnik. Long a society lady institution for buying and selling, it’s recently (and to owner Larayne Brannon’s bemusement) been discovered by Billie Eilish and a new crop of socialites: Tik-Tokers. “We have the very finest talk-to-people pieces,” says the super-knowledgable Brannon, who will text you when there are new lucky finds with your name on them.

Visit the new Ghiaia Cashmere in preppy-chic San Marino to luxuriate in Italian-made knitwear over coffee and cigarillos with creative director Davide Baroncini. “Davide is a host, that’s truly why visiting him is so special,” says his wife, Pia. “You have a cappuccino, you have a good conversation, you run into someone interesting.”

Get lost in the aisles of Japanese anime puzzles, plus stationary and stamps galore at Kinokuniya at the Santa Anita Mall. Also worth a visit to the mall: Shibuyala: the Japanese equivalent to Sephora meets 7/11, stocking everything from skincare to snacks.

California’s only Black female-owned bookstore focusing on BIPOC writers, Octavia’s Bookshelf stocks titles for all ages and interests, with owner Nikki High recently hosting Jada Pinkett Smith for a reading of her memoir, Worthy.

For last-minute outfits, hostess gifts, and everyday luxuries like a Mason Pearson comb or The Little Project’s Dandy ascot, Serafina is a chicly edited one-stop shop.

Until the end of January, creator Jacey Duprie’s new fashion label Wyeth (think: sportif barn jackets, silky trousers, and Nordic knits) has popped up in Old Pasadena.

Two doors down, Tac Tile Mountain features a curation of vintage tableware, handmade stockings, and home scents from Flamingo Estate. “It is an incredible gift shop known for amazing candles and incense,” says High.

Browse the aisles of titles at Vroman’s Bookstore, Southern California’s oldest independent seller. It has two Pasadena locations, with its own wine bar (complete with literary-themed cocktails) and the best outdoor newsstand in town at the Colorado Boulevard location.

Where to Eat

Bring friends and order each and every pasta on the menu at Union, à la Steven Ogg. You don’t want to miss Chef Christopher Keyser’s squid ink lumache with lobster and truffle butter, nor the classic spaghetti and meatballs, best enjoyed with a big glass of Tuscan red.

For special occasions, you can’t beat a crowd-pleasing surf and turf with all the fixings at Arroyo Chop House, which Ogg calls “a great old-school steak experience.” Do not overlook the jalapeno corn souffle, matchstick french fries, or chopped salad, nor the best martini in town. Ask for the blue cheese-stuffed olives.

Do an omakase date night at Sushi Enya’s wraparound bar. The Special Hand Roll is one of the best bites on the east side: seared scallop, uni, toro, and fresh shaved truffle.

At Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery you can not only dine on grazing platters of charcuterie and glossy brunch omelets, but also shop their in-house market for take-home provisions and gourmand pantry staples. “They have lovely wines and a wide selection of cheeses and other goodies that you will want to take home,” says High.

.For a peek into the fabulous world of Pasadena’s best hostesses, stop by Julienne Fine Foods & Celebrations, an opulent ode to ready-made extravagances—from a whole Christmas dinner, to a weeknight cassoulet, and every manner of holiday sweet. Sit on the arched terrace for a chicken tarragon salad lunch and local gossip. Look out for second-generation owner Julie Campoy, the area’s answer to Ina Garten.

Consider Paper Rice the Vietnamese Sweetgreen—though much smaller, it’s equally popular around lunchtime or for a quick dinner. Build your own fresh spring rolls, bánh mì, and rice bowls bursting with colorful California produce and your choice of herbaceous proteins.

Over glasses of natural wines in this dramatically curtained space, Bar Chelou’s pre-theatre tapas (must try: the clam toasts), shareable spreads, and whole fish will satisfy you before a show at the adjacent Pasadena Playhouse.

Howlin’ Ray’s Nashville-style fried chicken from chef Johnny Ray Zone (previously of Gordon Ramsay’s The London, Nobu, and Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Beverly Hills) has clearly won over Pasadenians. “You know it’s good when there are lines around the whole building,” says Erewhon’s Antoci, approvingly.

Local lore suggests the cheeseburger hails from Pasadena. Purists will love Pie ‘n Burger, a favorite diner for locals since 1963. “It’s a classic spot that hasn’t changed at all,” says Pia, who has been going since childhood and now takes her daughter. “The staff is sweet, burgers are incredible, shakes are thick, they have a mean Diet Coke, and there’s always a game on.”

Bone Kettle’s 36-hour bone broth brings delicious depth and nourishment to its ramen bowls. Indonesian and Laotian curries are another nightlight of this Southeast Asian bistro, which offers a traditional Filipino kamayan dinner over the holidays.

Where to Drink Coffee or Grab a Bite

Start the day at Union Street French Café, a family-owned establishment serving authentic pastries and fresh quiches. “The Canelés de Bordeaux is worth the trip alone,” says Brannon, whose shop is next door.

Nestled in the old cowboy town of Sierra Madre, Coffee.jpg pulls off the smoothest cortados and strawberry lattes. Next door is Perry’s Joint, a sandwich shop known for piling the toppings tall. Try the Hip Bird sandwich, High recommends.

The Boy & The Bear founder Andres Piñeros focuses on powerful Colombian coffees, sourced directly from farmers. Try a pour-over to best appreciate its earthy tannins.

Pillow Talk’s fluffy Japanese sandos, potted mousse cakes, and iced tiramisu frappe live up to the cafe’s name. Missing Tokyo? Do yourself a favor and order the Egg Heaven on soft milk bread.

It’s as if Wake & Late exists purely to ease hangovers. How else to describe the chef-y breakfast burritos (available on a cassava tortilla) and iced dirty chai that seem to cure everything? Ogg swears by them after a night out.

The Icelandic-Chinese jazz sensation Laufey recommends Mandarin Coffee Stand, tucked away in the Burlington Arcade. Inside, owner Sherry Gao is proudly introducing China-grown coffee beans and creamy tea-infused lattes (such as the Toasty or signature Vienna) that reflect her culture.

Neighborhood favorite Home Brewed Bar is on a mission to normalize coffee and boba. Their punchy Thai tea and iced Filipino coffee (cold brew infused with coconut water) are also made exponentially better with a scoop or two.

The community-focused Rosebud Coffee began as a coffee cart refuge to empower homeless and at-risk youth to learn the barista arts through its not-for-profit organization. Its Pasadena location can be counted on for excellent flat whites and actual conversation—weekends are strictly Wi-Fi-free.

Wellness and Beauty

Book a spot at Studio Morph for well-balanced pilates, stretching, and running classes for staying in peak form, a favorite of fashion and lifestyle PR Sarah Clark, founder of Brand Etiquette.

Check in for a spa day at The Langham Hotel’s Chuan for a facial and massage inspired by traditional Chinese medicine.

Stimulate your fascia and get scrubbed squeaky clean with a Korean body treatment and water therapy at V Spa.

For all things hair, see Paloma for the most precise trims in town at Evolutions Salon. Schedule an artful cut and color at Little Mountain Salon.

Try Well Studio’s Lymphatic drainage, a favorite of frequent fliers such as Pia Baroncini and TVG on-air host Christina Blacker.

Bat an eye at EyeDazzle. “I’ve been getting my lashes done here for seventeen years,” says Brannon.” Wellness center Space B.A.R stands for “breathe, adapt, recover—which thankfully, you can do through ice baths, infrared saunas, and sports massage, along with personal training.

What to See

An ode to Art Deco architecture, Santa Anita’s quite something to behold and worthy of getting all dressed up. Since 1934, “The Great Race Place” has welcomed Hollywood and horse royalty, from Seabiscuit and Zenyatta, to recently playing host to the prestigious Breeder’s Cup World Championship. “I grew up going to the track,” says Leon, whose dad viewed it as a family activity every weekend. “My sister and I would run through the tunnel to play in the in-field and ride ponies.” Try your luck at the winter race meet’s Opening Day on December 26.

Start the year off right with the Tournament of Roses (known as the Rose Parade), an annual New Year’s Day tradition since 1890 to kick off The Rose Bowl’s big college football game—complete with lively marching bands and floats. “Being a Pasadena native, taking part was woven into the fabric of our lives,” says Brannon.

Stroll through The Huntington, a world-class art museum, research library, and botanical gardens over 120 acres. Peruse the institution’s extensive art collection (featuring everything from a newly-acquired Goya to a recently rebuilt Japanese shōya house), wander through the Chinese and Desert gardens, book high tea at the Rose Garden Tea Room, and cross off everyone on your list at the skylit gift shop. “Absolutely stunning,” says High. ”It is a must stop. You can spend hours there and still won’t be able to take in all the goodness.”

You won’t want to miss Enchanted Forest of Light at Descanso Gardens, a holiday season must-visit. Experience the nighttime light show, a one-mile walk through the gardens featuring magical works on the main lawn by contemporary sculptor Tom Fruin, and sparkling geometric installations from HYBYCOZO in the Rose Garden, best enjoyed with a cup of warm apple cider.

Housed in a Victorian mansion, the Norton Simon Museum’s collection of starry painters and sculptors makes this Pasadena’s version of the Musee d’Orsay. Think: Daumier, Degas, Renoir, Gauguin, Rembrandt, Picasso, Braque and Giacometti, among others. “Beautiful and highly underrated,” says High.

Pasadena Playhouse is a Tony award-winning theater with an ambitious crowd-pleasing program ranging from a festive holiday musical to experimental comedian Kate Berlant’s lauded one-woman show directed by Bo Burnham.

Edited and courtesy of Vogue and Mosha L. Halbert